As an ominous sky moved in overhead we sought refuge in Deno’s Wonder Wheel Park.  The line for the world’s most famous ferris wheel was about 20 minutes (our longest of the day).  Of course, the stationery line was shorter, but that would seem to defeat the purpose.  As the industrial door swung open to greet us I stepped in, looked around and remembered what a feat of engineering this was when it first opened in 1920.  Even though it has aged the Wonder Wheel is still proud, still bringing in customers and still an icon for the island.  My friends were more than a little surprised at the swinging action the ride provided.  It really seems like a face first drop when the car swings downward for the second swing and the wheels roar overhead.  With its rumblings and grumblings the Wonder Wheel almost seems fitting that it comes from the age of my grandparents at Coney.  Like them it still groans and reminds me of a better time for the island, but also that the area’s recent rebirth is nothing short of a miracle considering the past also heralded many bad memories along with the good.

“Coney Island, then, leaps with a shout upon the casual visitor as he steps from a five cent trolley direct into the seething heart of her ten cent chaos, and pours out, as it were, the whole contents of her horn of plenty in a trice before his astounded eyes.” 
Guy Wetmore Carryl, September 1901

Coney from the beautiful beach.  On the far left is the parachute drop, while the Wonder Wheel spins to the right.

          Sideshows by the Seashore had been on my “to do” list for quite some time.  It was closed on my first two visits and the third had been a “ride day,” so we eagerly headed to the hullabaloo out on the street.  For the “one time only” price of $3 we entered and had a seat on the big wooden benches.  Now, I must say that I have always hated the concept of freak shows and even though Sideshows by the Seashore (http://www.coneyislandusa.com) is (obviously) a sideshow, I still felt a little uneasy watching the Human Blockhead driving a large nail into his nose.  But after a few minutes I found myself laughing and enjoying the show more than I ever thought I would.  In addition to the blockhead we saw a geek that laid on a bed of nails and had two people stand on him with another layer of nails (said people were the two friends I had in tow), the Rubber Girl, Koko the Killer Clown, Sealo the Seal boy (a man who had hands at his elbow instead of a full arm who shaved & sawed a piece of wood), a snake charmer, a one-armed juggler who was really amazing to watch and the same gentleman who was the blockhead ate fire.  I sat back with a Budweiser and had a better time at Sideshows than I would have ever thought possible.  The way the show works is that it is a ten-in-one act, runs non-stop and you are free to leave at any time.  I was surprised, and pleased, at how many people were in the stands when we got there and how many kept coming in.  Between the bad jokes and relaxed atmosphere I really felt that I had taken a step back in time.  Dick Zigun and the rest of the Sideshows crew need to be commended for keeping this element of Coney alive for future generations.  No, it is not Broadway or off-Broadway quality.  It was better.

          As the sun began to lazily list in the sky it was getting to be my least favorite part of the day, it was nearly time to go.  Amazed that the afternoon had sped by we got in another ride on the B & B and walked east on Surf Avenue to the Cyclone.  I got in two more rides, both in 1.2, and said goodbye to the old girl, hopefully for not too long.  We crossed West 10^th and I got an Italian Sausage at Gregory and Paul’s.  I walked down Surf with the sausage covered in onions and peppers, hoping they would reach my mouth instead of the pavement.  At Nathan’s I enjoyed some wonderful Manhattan clam chowder to end my meal and listened to the island’s heartbeat around me.

          The afternoon was drawing to a close; the city-dwellers now crossed Surf Avenue with empty coolers, children contently napping on shoulders and the last of the Atlantic Ocean dripping onto the concrete from damp pairs of swimming trunks.   I reluctantly worked my way over to the Stillwell Avenue station and as the N train pulled away I could not help but still see beauty in this place.  As we paralled Surf Avenue the Wonder Wheel creaked around, the Cyclone threw people of together, the island seethed with thousands and off in the distance the sun fell into the Atlantic as another day at Coney came to a close.

Coney Island is a unique illustration of the fact that men and women are but children of a larger growth.  It is the vast summer playhouse of a great city – a playground in which boys and girls of all ages and all classes may find such amusement as they choose.”
Lindsay Denison 1905

The Coney Island Page Home

Adam Sandy, Copyright 2001.